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Discussion and questions related to the course Motorsport Fabrication Fundamentals
So I personally have only used a Chop Saw over a Cold Saw. From the limited research I have done it appears cold saws are fairly expensive. (Baileigh $1995) vs a Dewalt chop saw which I currently own. For someone who is budget conscious, will the chop saw do pretty much everything you need for cage work? For those who have a cold saw, what is the selling points over the chop saw and at what point did you decide to make the switch the the cold saw?
Thanks for the help
If you can't swing a cold saw, a VERY good medium is a metal saw, I have a Makita LC1230. Its fantastic. I run diablo carbide tipped blades and it cuts through metal like butter (i use an 80 tooth for thin stainless tubing)
The other good thing about buying a metal saw is that your abrasive chop saw can now take a 90 tooth diablo carbide blade and be perfect for cutting aluminum!
Thanks for raising the question Marcus and your input Tim.
I also use a DeWalt Cold Cut saw that I use to cut my longer lengths outside before bringing them into the workshop.
I think the greatest benefit to a more expensive cold saw (like the brobo or baileigh brands) is the precise mitre cuts and also clamping ability making it easy to cut larger and thicker tube.
A good cold saw also spins at a very slow speed with a large blade and these last a long time and can be sharpened over and over making it more suited to larger workshops.
Dont discount the bandsaw type of saw, they are brilliant on thin wall tube and can also cut solid bar with coolant, this may be a better investment for those that havnt got a saw yet. You can do almost everything with an angle grinder but a proper saw makes life a lot easier.
I am thinking about getting one as the band saw i have is pretty big and is not my best friend. It disslodges the band blade on and off and im getting a bit tired of it.
In regards to getting a cold saw, I have a couple of questions, hope You all can help:
How fast/slow does the saw need to be moving?
The Makita one is 1700 RPM, and is about 1000 USD in Denmark, where as this one, which is a middle brand one runs at 1300. https://www.primusdanmark.dk/metalafkorter/3919-metalkapsav-metalafkorter-langsomtgaaende.html
Is 1700 "slow" and is 1300 too slow?
How about blades, what do i need to know? Are the all the same diameter in the center hole, or do i need to look for something specific? How about material and thickness? With angle grinder cutting disks, the need to be pretty thin to be any good, but not too thin. Is it the same with cold saw blades?
Anything else i should know?
Also: I have been looking at the milwuakee band saw, because its attachable/detachable to a fixed position, so you both have it as a precise band saw, and as a portable one. Anyone have experience with that: https://federatedtool.com/milwaukee-portable-bandsaw-table-48-08-0260/
Ive only ever used a relatively cheap "chop" saw and had pretty bad experience with it, Cut would always seem to wander.
After that I got my hands on a Horizontal band saw which as been great and served me well for years.
Ive never used a "Cold" saw. what are the benefits of a Cold saw vs a Horizontal bandsaw? I do always get a slight burr with the bandsaw (could do with a new blade) do you still get a burr with a cold saw?
I think either is fine but I do prefer the cold saw as it’s a burly machine that can complete a lot of cuts and the blades can be resharpened. That little Milwaukee portable saw is great but the clamping system looks like it could do with some improvements.
It may be an American thing, but I assume you guys are talking about abrasive Vs toothed cut-off saws?
My personal view is to avoid the abrasive type - they wear quickly and can easily wander, even on straight cuts - the toothed type is much more tolerant of angled cuts and, provided one isn't an idiot jamming them into the work-piece, should last a lot longer. Also a lot less messy as that abrasive dust gets everywhere.
Elk', the higher speed one should cut noticeably faster, but will probably use a lot more power too.
Give the choice,I would use the Makita as it is faster and I have had good service out of the brand - BUT I would suggest you check the availability of blades to suit that rpm - you don't want cheap ones failing and flicking tip inserts back at you!